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Wednesday, June 9, 2010

5/20/2010 - 5/21/2010


Sunrise at the Yurt Camp

Caretaker of the Ayaz Qala Yurt Camp

Sandstorm

Yurt II, The Girls Yurt

Children at Play in Khorezm
Tuprak Qala, Uzbekistan

We arrived in the Yurt Camp after scaling the Tuprak Qala and Quyulgan Qala. Climbing the Qalas was an adventurous experience. I love history, nature, and challenges, especially physical ones, so climbing atop of these ancients cities, was the perfect combination of all three. Built in the 4th century A.D., these fortresses provide insight into how the Khans of Korezm once lived. It was hot, and the sand beneath my feet crumpled as I climbed to the top of what was once a guarding tower. These places are archeological sights and so their stories are still being studied. Unfortunately, not enough people are interested in them, so excavations have stopped because of a lack in investment. More should be done for these sights. The history we could learn about the Khans would truly be extraordinary.

We got into our bus, walked across the flooding bridge of the Amu Darya, and arrived at the Yurt Camp two hours later. As soon as we stepped out of the vehicle we realized that the wind was too strong for us to climb the Ayaz Qala. Apparently, as we later found out after staying in our yurts for three hours, we arrived right in the middle of a sandstorm. It was impossible to see, to walk, to open your mouth and breathe in. The wind whipped the sand into your face, obscured your vision, and covered every possible surface on your body. My hair was filled with sand and looked like it was loosely dredded. My clothing, luggage, linen, pink pants were completely distressed by the wind and sand constantly beating against. The only refuge could be found in the Yurt, where the felt, straw, and clay, prevented the wind and sand from coming in.

The yurt was as I had imagined. Carpets lined the bottom of the circular interior, with mattresses, blankets, and pillows, available for our comfort. The girls and I pulled in our belongings, and exhausted by the constant pull of the wind, collapsed on our flat matresses. We played cards, attempted to go outside, but failed terribly as it was very hard to breathe and walk. The only way we could really manage it was to cover our faces completely with a scarf and breathe into the fabric. We made a few runs to the nearby bathroom, which as most bathrooms are in Central Asia, was a squat like device, and then tried to walk around the area near the Yurt. Almost like a mirage, we saw a camel struggling against the wind and sand in the distance and some donkeys cleaning eachother from the debree.

The next time we left the yurt it was time for dinner and we all piled into the fourth yurt. It was different and wonderful. Sitting on the floor cross legged we ate yogurt and plov with bread and tea. Tea was accompanied by raisins and nuts. Sweets must always be on the table for happiness and a good life. Later on, musicians from the region came to perform for us. A man with a beautiful voice and traditional Central Asian instruments, one of which was an accordian, performed songs in Azeri, Persian, Uzbek, and Kyril Kalpakian, an autonomous region in Uzbekistan. We were asked to dance and everyone got up and in traditional Uzbek style, which is quite similar to Azeri dance at its very core, and danced until we couldnt anymore.

Once the evening came to an end, we took a walk in the night air. The sandstorm had finally passed and all that was left was a beautiful breeze, the clear night desert air, and land for miles around us. We were in the middle of nowhere, as close to nature as you could be out here, and it was so peaceful, so beautiful. Some of us went to bed, others layed out outside on this structure that looked a bit like a stage but was for resting and sleeping. It was covered in sheep wool and was warm and comfortable. We stayed there for a while, talking about life, about careers and families, and slowly one by one, we went back to our yurts. Two of the members and I decided to stay out in the night air, to sleep on this stage under the night sky. We got our blankets and pillows from inside and fell asleep underneath the stars. It was one of the most amazing things I had ever done in my life. I feel asleep looking off a cliff into the desert, with the Ayaz Qala to my left and the yurt camp behind me, and the desolate landscape and lake to my right in the very far off distance.

I woke up the next morning to see the sunrise at 4:30 am. It was still dark outside but the world was starting to wake up. Little glimmers of light seeped into the dark night sky, giving the blackness a shade of gray and blue. The air was cool and crisp, and I nestled into my hoodie a little tighter as I stepped behind the yurts to watch the sunrise. As it got later into the morning, the colors of the sky began to change. The horizon was painted in pinks, white, shades of blue and deep purple. As I began to walk towards the lake, the sands of the little dunes crushing beneath my feet, the sun began to peak out of the horizon. Suddenly the sky exploded in yellow and orange, the pink dispursing, shooting out of the side of the sun as the sky transformed into blue and light. It was the most beautiful moment to see, the entire world waking up, the circle of the sun rising from the horizon of the desert to bring in a new day. It will be something I never forget.

Almost immediately the weather changed and the crisp air was warmed by the appearance of the sun. I felt the warmth of its rays warm my body as I trekked back from the lake. By this time most of our group was awake and sharing in the amazing moment. Some of us walked to the Qala, I opted to do some yoga with a few of our professors and I am very glad I did. My body really needed the stretch , and doing yoga while you are looking out upon a desert horizon, an ancient fortress, and a herdsmen with his goats, is truly an amazing and unforgettable experience.

After breakfast we all gathered back into the bus, said our goodbyes with the beautiful caretaker of the yurts and headed off through the desert to Bukhara. Until next time everyone!

1 comment:

  1. Hello travelers to Ancient Khorezm! If you have any questions about going to Khiva, Ayaz Qala or to the Aral sea you may ask from me. I'll organize you professional transportation and guidance services to you. You may write me to: khorezm@gmail.com or call directly to my mobile phone: +998946571271

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